• 11 Posts
  • 24 Comments
Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: July 8th, 2023

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  • You’re mad that the contest was moderated?

    More the opposite. The sloppy way they moderate it to the point where they don’t even bother to remove comment spam below the contest description page.

    Voters voted on the submissions they liked the most. Get over it. Voters voted on the submissions they liked the most. Get over it.

    That’s not how it works. There is no public vote.

    Honestly I stopped reading. Something about a paid part integration that you got mad about because it’s heavily discounted and you can submit photos even if you don’t have one or something?

    Just read the comments here: https://blog.prusa3d.com/contest-experiential-robotics-challenge_97306/

    Dozens feel like this isn’t a good choice.

    Btw. I don’t take part in them but it is still very ugly what they do. Similiar you don’t need to buy Nestle to understand that Nestle might be problematic in some aspect.












  • If cold pulls won’t work get a new nozzle. Filament of choice for this procedure is Nylon.

    One of the alternatives could be THF to dissolve the plastic and go from there. Don’t know what Prusa charges for nozzles but it can’t be that bad to make this procedure worth it. After all it is a Prusa and not some industrial machine.


  • Improved but still not a match to Ultimaker Cura.

    Prusa is very slow compared to Cura as PrusaSlicer needs every option checked including Geometry handling accurate to sometimes get 7 pcs. matching Cura performance. If the result is 7 or 6 pcs. depends on where the part originally was placed on the print bed (or luck? run to run variance?). Not a reliable software for nesting.

    With fast and balanced setting it only does 6 pcs.

    fast:

    balanced:

    accurate:




  • Cars are a very high-vibration environment with km of wiring and some carrying high currents, flammable liquids and hot parts. With e-autos there is even more including a 50’000 Wh energy storage waiting to catch fire.

    While cars do catch fire it is unlikely to the point where they don’t need fire suppression systems.

    Some cars have fire suppression systems but those are race cars. Built differently to maximize performance. (or military vehicles)

    Similiar there are 3D-printer that might benefit from a fire suppression system but the run of the mil 3D-printer won’t need it.

    Not convinced? Look at CNC-mills or swiss lathes. Those are designed to run nonstop for years in a production environment at the highest speeds to maximize production. Most of them don’t have a fire suppression system (they do have a mist extraction/collector to prevent them from exploding).


  • I like BambuLab. They handled the issue seriously. Resolved it and now it is fixed.

    What I meant with low end China is like QIDI-tech having exposed 230V (not fixing it), Tronxy choosing high and low voltage wires with the same color and no PE connection to the chassis, Ankermake having issues with the heatbed insulation (not fixing that either) and crushed wires. That’s just three examples and don’t expect that other companies are better. BambuLab is a rare exception.

    Once you teardown “industrial”/professional machines the point of view changes: PE connections, strain relief, drag chain rated cables with appropriate bend radius, crimped ferrules instead of solder on wire ends, … they are built to last and run 24/7 without catching fire…


  • The best protection is a machine that is well build:

    We have ovens in our kitchens that are designed to reach upto 400°C (for cleaning) and nobody is afraid of them catching fire. Why? They are engineered to be safe.

    Similiar a 3D printer that has good engineering is safe and doesn’t require an automatic fire extinguisher.

    If we talk about low-end China printers then the answer is they might not be as safe but the solution is to fix them instead of adding the fire suppression system.


  • The teeth is indeed a critical aspect. It has to be symmetrical as this assembly is mirrored to block the rotation in the other direction.

    An alternative to this would be printing the spring with the contact surface separately and inserting it into this print (pause at layer height, insert part, continue print) allowing other geometries (that would overlap with the teeth if printed in place) and pretension. The downside is it’s a manual task and one more separate part to keep track of.

    This is small and the tolerances of the center hub cause the teeths/“gear” to move approx. 0.3-0.5mm of centre. This means what you see in the CAD/slicer isn’t how it will look once printed. I had to narrow the gap down as much as I could to get the largest contact area. If you make it a sled on one side there is less material/surface area.

    A further consequence is that the tip of it doesn’t touch anything as such you could remove the very tip to adjust the sound signature. The feeling is slightly changed but primarily this replaced the high-pitched plastic sound with a deep tone.

    The nice aspect is that in the blocking position, it is a solid connection meaning it can take as much load as the teeth (tip) can support (hence the trying to maximize the contact area there). The spring element is only there to return this blocking “bolt” into position after a teeth passes through.