Most LEDs run on DC, and the built-in transformer is the most likely component to fail. If the LED is failing and getting dimmer, it’s most likely due to poor heat dissipation.
If we had little 12v adapters and separate LED modules, you could reduce waste by only replacing the part that fails, and manufacturers would have greater incentive to improve build quality. Instead, we get cheaply manufactured bulb-shaped disposable units that need to be thrown away when one part fails.
Electricians don’t want to touch DC circuits because it is illegal to mix low voltage DC and high voltage AC circuits. At least it’s illegal in Europe. You need to rebuild your walls to ensure separate and independent wiring channels. And that’s a very expensive nightmare.
Yeah, I definitely get it. It would be illegal to mix low and line voltage in the USA, too.
I ended up running the cabling myself, all class two circuits powering 12 24vdc spots. The nice bit is that they are all addressable RGBW spots, so I can control them all individually or as groups. And it’s all automated. The downside is that I’ll probably have to remove them if we ever sell this house, because nobody but me understands how it works.
The thing is that it is a lot easier and a lot safer to buy some ESP32 boards, flash them with WLED, plug into 5V/12V/24V box, hide all of that in a 3D printed enclosure and call it a day than to rebuild the bloody walls (: And you won’t be breaking any regulations and every sparky will be fine with that.
Running all your house with two wiring systems is dumb AF that’s why no one will ever do that for you. That’s my point.
I was looking at rv lighting as some options over wise just doing custom jobs (LEDs in whatever fixtures I think look nice). It helps like domes, reccesed, and ambiant lighting I think.
Oh yeah electricians are allergic to DC lol (I used to be one, and yeah that was big knowledge gap in codes, breakers, etc).
Yeah. Its about 50/50 for the ones who failed me. Gets too hot and burn out or the power supply fails. More prevalent in the compact formats like spots and g8 or g4.
Yeah I’ve only ever had one LED bulb die, and I think that was because it was faulty in some way. I’ve had a much better experience with them compared to CFLs.
Usually it’s a badly designed heat sink that’s meant to cause an eventual short so that it has to be replaced. Or just shoddy low material builds. LEDs really can last an obscene amount of time and they don’t die another part does.
Same goes for light bulbs
Well yes, but the light would be very dim, if we are talking about incandescent bulbs.
Technology connections had an episode about it.
LED bulbs last pretty much forever.
They get dimmer over time. And they do it gradually so you don’t notice it until you buy a new one and realize how dim the old one was
Most LEDs run on DC, and the built-in transformer is the most likely component to fail. If the LED is failing and getting dimmer, it’s most likely due to poor heat dissipation.
If we had little 12v adapters and separate LED modules, you could reduce waste by only replacing the part that fails, and manufacturers would have greater incentive to improve build quality. Instead, we get cheaply manufactured bulb-shaped disposable units that need to be thrown away when one part fails.
Honestly considering going to DC lighting after my solar conversion completes at my house for this reason
I have some dc lighting in my basement. It’s great, but there aren’t as many options out there and electricians don’t want to touch it.
Electricians don’t want to touch DC circuits because it is illegal to mix low voltage DC and high voltage AC circuits. At least it’s illegal in Europe. You need to rebuild your walls to ensure separate and independent wiring channels. And that’s a very expensive nightmare.
It’s a lot cheaper to buy Philips bulbs instead.
Yeah, I definitely get it. It would be illegal to mix low and line voltage in the USA, too.
I ended up running the cabling myself, all class two circuits powering 12 24vdc spots. The nice bit is that they are all addressable RGBW spots, so I can control them all individually or as groups. And it’s all automated. The downside is that I’ll probably have to remove them if we ever sell this house, because nobody but me understands how it works.
The thing is that it is a lot easier and a lot safer to buy some ESP32 boards, flash them with WLED, plug into 5V/12V/24V box, hide all of that in a 3D printed enclosure and call it a day than to rebuild the bloody walls (: And you won’t be breaking any regulations and every sparky will be fine with that.
Running all your house with two wiring systems is dumb AF that’s why no one will ever do that for you. That’s my point.
I was looking at rv lighting as some options over wise just doing custom jobs (LEDs in whatever fixtures I think look nice). It helps like domes, reccesed, and ambiant lighting I think.
Oh yeah electricians are allergic to DC lol (I used to be one, and yeah that was big knowledge gap in codes, breakers, etc).
Yeah. Its about 50/50 for the ones who failed me. Gets too hot and burn out or the power supply fails. More prevalent in the compact formats like spots and g8 or g4.
Yeah I’ve only ever had one LED bulb die, and I think that was because it was faulty in some way. I’ve had a much better experience with them compared to CFLs.
I’ve had lots of led bulbs die. I think it’s because I bought them at the dollar store.
And finding quality ones that will last a long time is more difficult than you might think.
Many of them are made cheaply.
Usually it’s a badly designed heat sink that’s meant to cause an eventual short so that it has to be replaced. Or just shoddy low material builds. LEDs really can last an obscene amount of time and they don’t die another part does.