Hey 3D printing fellas,
Are you worried about failures that can lead to disaster like printer catching on fire and burning down firniture and house? Do you use any kind of protection against fire?
I know metal enclosures are the best, but my printer is in the Ikea Lack enclosure. I checked connections and everything looks great, but I soldered cable on the heated bed anyway. Im not super worried tbh, but Im thinking about buying Stovetop Firestop and mounting it inside the enclosure just in case. This one is triggered with open flame only, so probably false activation is not possible. I would probably buy 2 more for kitchen.
There are also balls and other extinguisher shapes, but the one from the picture seems more recommended. Bad thing is I cant find that one availabls in europe. There are also smoke detectors, but they can only alarm you or cut the power.
What do you use? Can you recommend any good automatic extinguisher available in europe?
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The best protection is a machine that is well build:
We have ovens in our kitchens that are designed to reach upto 400°C (for cleaning) and nobody is afraid of them catching fire. Why? They are engineered to be safe.
Similiar a 3D printer that has good engineering is safe and doesn’t require an automatic fire extinguisher.
If we talk about low-end China printers then the answer is they might not be as safe but the solution is to fix them instead of adding the fire suppression system.
If we talk about low-end China printers then the answer is they might not be as safe
Bambu had to recall one of their printers for a faulty bed heating wire that either was causing or had the high likely to cause fires. We have robots with flame swords that we’ve trained to not burn our house down. Yes some robots are better built or trained than others but it’s still a robot with a flame sword nonetheless.
I like BambuLab. They handled the issue seriously. Resolved it and now it is fixed.
What I meant with low end China is like QIDI-tech having exposed 230V (not fixing it), Tronxy choosing high and low voltage wires with the same color and no PE connection to the chassis, Ankermake having issues with the heatbed insulation (not fixing that either) and crushed wires. That’s just three examples and don’t expect that other companies are better. BambuLab is a rare exception.
Once you teardown “industrial”/professional machines the point of view changes: PE connections, strain relief, drag chain rated cables with appropriate bend radius, crimped ferrules instead of solder on wire ends, … they are built to last and run 24/7 without catching fire…
Thx for input.
I agree with you mostly, but there are also unfortunate examples even with big eu brand as well. Im not paranoid, but home 3D printer is more like production machine than kitchen appliance imo. They have moving parts and print failures happen sooner or later. Fire in a kitchen is not that rare it seems anyway.
Before reading comments, I wasnt aware that prusa is selling fire suppression system, but I guess there is a reason for that
Cars are a very high-vibration environment with km of wiring and some carrying high currents, flammable liquids and hot parts. With e-autos there is even more including a 50’000 Wh energy storage waiting to catch fire.
While cars do catch fire it is unlikely to the point where they don’t need fire suppression systems.
Some cars have fire suppression systems but those are race cars. Built differently to maximize performance. (or military vehicles)
Similiar there are 3D-printer that might benefit from a fire suppression system but the run of the mil 3D-printer won’t need it.
Not convinced? Look at CNC-mills or swiss lathes. Those are designed to run nonstop for years in a production environment at the highest speeds to maximize production. Most of them don’t have a fire suppression system (they do have a mist extraction/collector to prevent them from exploding).
BlazeCut Tseries 50cm is about right for a 3d printer enclosure volume.
https://blazecut.com/t-series/
Prusa sells a 30cm one as an option for their enclosure, but it is undersized for the enclosure volume, so I bought the 50cm one separately.
Well I wasn’t all that worried about this until now! Thanks for unlocking new anxiety. My prints run through the night in the basement. Does this happen often with modern printers?
It was a significant problem in early machines. Most now have thermal runaway protection. As long as your wires don’t short out, it shouldn’t be a problem.
And the only wires that have enough energy to be a problem are the heaters- hot ends, heated beds/enclosures.
The firmware keeps track of how much energy is going to them and will shut the printer down if the energy is inconsistent with the reported temperatures. (Aka thermal runaway protection.)
You can also usually add secondary thermistors and if they deviate too much, triggers the same result. (And the machine will usually start trilling to get attention, etc,)
The only other thing to worry about are mosfets failing in an ON state.
Not sure if it’s the same risk with SSR’s
Eh. when was the last time a mosfet melted on anyone? not saying it can’t happen, but mosfets are at fairly reliable. as long as you’re not trying to push wayyy too much power through them; and also proper surge protection to avoid things like bad power in your house frying them.
It’s not that they melt as much as they just keep dumping heat into the heater cartridge and wires.
And if failed in an on state thermal runaway isn’t going to stop it.
It’s relatively rare though. I’m not too worried about it but it’s one of the reasons I watch my printer and of course there’s thermal fuses for such occasions if you really needed it.
Ideally the heater shouldn’t be powerful enough to set itself on fire even at 100% power I guess.
For bed heaters there are thermal fuses.
The heater no, but a blob of filament with the heat pumping into it is worrying.
